There are four major categories of injuries on a stationary bike: knee, hip, back, and wrist injuries. Knee injuries are usually caused when the seat is incorrectly adjusted or the resistance is set too high. Hip injuries usually occur by using the bike too frequently and exercising too strenuously without slowly increasing the workout intensity. Back injuries can happen by using improper posture during the workout. And wrist injuries develop when fatigue sets which causes a person to lean forward on the handlebars, placing too much weight and strain on the wrists over time.

All of these injuries can be avoided by: properly adjusting the machine, keeping the correct, upright posture during the workout, and using workout routines that are only moderately strenuous.

You do NOT have to push yourself hard on a stationary bike. Low resistance and a slow pace is still a really good workout, even though you may not be feeling it right away. Even though the large muscle groups, such as the thigh muscles, may feel strong to you, and able to push harder, there are many smaller muscle groups that do not get worked out, and you risk injuring these by pushing yourself too hard. If you have been using an upright bike, you may consider switching to a recumbent bike, or vise versa, just to mix it up a bit. Take it slow, and in small doses.

You may not need to wear a helmet to avoid injury on an exercise bike, but you still need to use common sense about the limits of your body.

Linda - http://how.best-free-information.com - The "How" Blog

This is not always best. And if you are using Camtasia Studio to edit the video, it does not read the MP4 format that Flip Video uses.

Before December 2009, Flip Video's software, called FlipShare, used to convert and compress the videos to a WMV or MOV format. However, with the firmware upgrade at that time, they got rid of the conversion. They compress it, but leave it as an MP4 format.

After pestering Flip Video's support staff for a day, I finally got in touch with a knowledgeable tech who explained all of this. And, on the down-low, recommended I use Koyote's free video converter (found at http://www.koyotesoft.com).

I downloaded the converter and saved the video from the MP4 format on the device itself into a host of formats on my local drive. WMV works well, as does AVI (and of course, AVI has better quality).

So, if you're using Camtasia and are extremely frustrated about not being able to edit your Flip Videos, give Koyote's video converter a try, or any other free converter to move it from the MP4 format to a workable one.

Linda - http://how.best-free-information.com - The "How" Blog

There is a wide variety of under cabinet lights. You can get a lightbar with LEDs. LEDs emit little to no heat, and use very little electricity, and yet produce quite a bright amount of light. They also last much longer than incandescent or even fluorescent bulbs.

Another variety is called a "puck light". It is a series of individual, round puck-like lights that are small and can be mounted in a variety of patterns. This makes it easy to illuminate certain, specific sections of your counters, either for a brighter workspace, or to highlight decorative elements. They plug in directly to the wall, which eliminates some of the work of hard-wiring.

As for materials, you will need the lighting kit, screwdrivers, drill with appropriate-sized bits, hammer, pencil, and safety glasses. If you choose to recess the lights, you will need a hole saw, or a keyhole saw. As always, refer to the instructions that come with your specific kit.

Clear both the counter below the cabinet, and remove the contents from the bottom shelf of the cabinets. Next, plan the layout of your lights. Some manufacturers have specific instructions about the spacing of the lights (for heat-emitting reasons), so pay attention to the instructions.

You want to place the lights as close to the front of the cabinet as possible. This gives the best lighting on the counter, and the facing of the cabinet can hide the lights and wires. You want to hide the wires and the unit that will plug into the wall. (Running the wires down behind a refrigerator is a good choice.) However, you may need to drill a small hole into the bottom of the cabinet and have the wires run through the cabinets themselves.

Mark the position of the lights with your pencil. Position the fixture, with the wire pointing toward the back of the cabinet. Mount the lights with either the included screws, or wood screws. Use wire tacks to secure the wires from the power supply to the light fixtures, again, as close as possible to the front of the cabinet. Hide excess cord inside or in between the cabinets. Once all units are installed, connect them to the wires and test.

If you are installing an under counter TV or radio, be sure to place the lights with enough room to allow the TV/radio unit in between the lights.

Linda - http://how.best-free-information.com - The "How" Blog

Wicker is known to be a dust-catcher. All of the tiny nooks and crannies make it difficult to clean.

The best way to clean it is to start with a vacuum cleaner with some kind of brush attachment. Vacuum the entire chair, on all surfaces, top and bottom. Once that is done, take a damp cloth and wipe down the entire chair.

Sometimes it may be helpful to oil the chair (all wood needs oil to help it stay conditioned). You can work the oil into the wicker with a brush, but thin it a bit first by mixing it with thinner. After you brush it on, you can buff out the excess with a dry cloth.

Linda - http://how.best-free-information.com - The "How" Blog

Here are some tips to stay safe:

1. Avoid walking in socks on hardwood stairs. If you must wear socks around the house, then add stair tread rugs to the steps to give you traction.

2. Use the handrail. I know. Basics. But in the event you do slip, which does happen, you can catch yourself before you take a tumble.

3. Slow down. It's not a race. Moving quickly on the steps is asking for trouble.

4. Keep the steps clear of clutter. Many folks place items on the steps "to be carried up next time". But they pose a danger for folks coming down.

5. Turn on the lights! It's easier to avoid falling if you can see where to step.

6. Big feet? Small steps? Turn sideways a bit as you go up and down so you get your entire foot on the stair tread. If you step down with your toes hanging off each stair, you risk falling.

Linda - http://how.best-free-information.com - The "How" Blog

There are a few steps you can use to to help the cat make the switch from using a litter box to using the toilet. Before you even begin making the switch, help the cat become accustomed to the fact that the bathroom is now the place they should go to relieve themselves. In other words, the best chance of success comes if the cat is already used to going into the bathroom to use the litter box.

First, you need to find something called a litter bowl. Get a bowl, like a large mixing or salad bowl, that fits inside the bowl of your toilet. You might need to use a metal bowl which you can then shape (by bending and pounding) to fit. Set the bowl inside your toilet, and fill it with litter. (Obviously it helps if you've shut the water off to your toilet tank and flushed the toilet first.) Put the seat down, but not the lid. You may need to secure the lid in the upright position to keep the cat from knocking it down on themselves (and sealing the litter bowl shut, leading to accidents!) Remove the old litter box, as this bowl now becomes the cats litter box. Be very proactive about removing any clumps right away so the cat feels comfortable using it (they don't like messy boxes, and a messy bowl won't help).

Once the cat is accustomed to the litter bowl, the next step is to have the cat get used to standing on the seat, instead of in the sand. To do this, you need some heavy-duty cardboard, or a piece of plastic, strong enough to support the weight of your cat, and large enough to cover the bowl and toilet seat. Cut a small hole, about six inches in diameter, in the center of the cover. This lets the cat paw the sand, but won't let the cat actually sit in the litter when using it. The cat may miss a few times, but they are getting used to trying without sitting in the sand. Continue to remove the dirty litter, but do not refill it, as you want the level of the litter to get lower and lower to help make the next transition.

After the cat is consistently standing on the cover and going through the hole (or close to it), you are ready for the next phase. Continue to decrease the amount of litter until there is almost none. Then, on a day when you will be around all day, or better still, an entire weekend, fill the bowl with water instead. This stage is not pleasant for you or your cat, and it is the most difficult part of training the cat. However, just remember how close you are to saying goodbye to the litter box forever!

Once the cat is comfortable using the hole in the cover into the water in the bowl, you can remove the bowl completely. Then the cat is using the toilet itself, but still with the aid of standing on the platform you've made. At that point you can begin increasing the size of the hole, little by little. Make the hole an inch in diameter larger, and let the cat successfully use it. Then increase the size again. Repeat until the hole is almost the size of the bowl. At that point you can remove the cover altogether, and the cat should be using the toilet seat to stand on, going into the toilet. No more litter box changes, you can just flush the toilet. (And yes, you can actually train your cat to flush as well!)

Pamper your toilet-trained cat with a heated cat bed. Since you are removing the privacy and snug feeling of a litter box, provide a small, cozy bed, with a cat heating pad to help them stay warm. They will love it, and have a place to relax and snuggle. If they are using the toilet instead of the litter box, they deserve it!

Linda - http://how.best-free-information.com - The "How" Blog

Frames can cast shadows around the eyes which can be exacerbated by dark circles under the eyes. Use a salmon-tinted base to brighten the blue area directly beneath the eyes.

Another problem that glasses can cause to the makeup is when the nose brace of the glasses smears, smudges, or removes the makeup on the nose. Mineral foundation can help prevent the smudging.

Eyeliner should emphasize your lower lid, not your upper lid, as the angle of light coming through the lenses will balance this out when you are actually wearing the glasses.

You will want to minimize the amount of mascara on your lashes, since the glasses can rub the mascara off, or make it appear uneven. Like with the eyeliner, be sure to emphasize more on your lower lashes than your upper.

When you apply blush to your cheeks, be sure to suck in your cheeks so that you create indentations on your face. Apply the blush to the sunken areas of your cheeks, which will sculpt your face in a way that emphasizes your natural cheekbones. Having them clearly defined can help prevent the glasses from becoming the dominant feature of your face.

When you are finished applying all of your makeup, be sure to re-check in various lighting settings from your makeup mirror. And, of course, be sure to check with your glasses on.

Be sure your makeup vanity table provides ample lighting, and if need be, magnification, since you will be applying your makeup without your glasses on.

Linda - http://how.best-free-information.com - The "How" Blog

There are two types of "stay" behaviors that you want to see in your dog. There is what is called "stay for duration", and "stay for distance". Staying for duration trains the dog to stay in the same position for a certain amount of time. Staying for distance trains the dog to be still while you move away from the animal. They have to learn to stay for duration first.

It helps to have an environment that is free from distractions from the animal. Inside the house is best, and with no one else in the house, or at least in the room, to make distracting noises. You should even turn the TV or radio off first.

Before training the dog, you need to establish some kind of reward. Some trainers use a clicker to have a consistent sound that goes hand-in-hand with a reward of some kind, but you can also use a verbal command. Consistency is the key. When you issue the "good dog" statement, there should be no doubt that the dog is being rewarded.

Stay at eye-level with your dog. Begin by feeding the dog a treat, and giving the praise statement. Then, in one hand hold a treat back close to your chest, and use the other hand to make a signal of the palm facing the dog (like a policeman signaling "stop"). When you put your hand up, issue the command "stay", making eye contact, and in a commanding voice. Hold your hand there, while the dog stays. Start with a low count, in your head, to about three. Then reward the dog with a treat and your praise statement. Repeat the process, but increase the amount of time a little bit.

Keep in mind that training the dog to stay can save the dog's life. It is not so much a trick as it is the ability to control the dog. If the dog were to break loose and run into the street, it could get injured. Maintaining control over your pet can keep it out of trouble.

Linda - http://how.best-free-information.com - The "How" Blog

Before a dog can learn advanced tricks like playing dead or rolling over, they should already be familiar with common commands like "come", "lay down" and "stay"...especially the latter.

To start, you should teach the dog to play dead, since rolling over starts from the "play dead" position. To train a dog to play dead, you use what is called "lure training". Lure training is when you use a reward like a toy or a treat to motivate the dog to get into a certain position. It depends on whether your specific animal likes to play more, or eat more, as to which reward you use.

Have your dog lay down, and bring the treat or toy close to the dog's face, but out of reach. Bring the lure (the toy or treat) up over the dog's head and around so that the only way for the dog to follow the lure and grasp it is to lay on its side. As soon as it gets on its side, with good eye contact and a firm voice, issue the "stay" command. As the dog obeys and stays in that position, issue the new command, "play dead". When the dog does what you want, give it whatever standard praise word you use, like "good boy" or, if you are using a clicker, the click reward. Make sure that you are tying the new phrase "play dead" to the praise only when the dog has done what you want.

Remember to be patient. Training doesn't always happen in one or two sessions. Dogs like to play and establish the connection with you.

Once the dog has learned the "play dead" trick, you can help it make the transition to a "roll over". Have the dog assume the play dead position, again, using the lure that works best. Continue to bring the lure around the dog just out of reach so that is has to roll in order to see the lure. When the dog rolls over, issue the command "roll over" in a loud, firm voice, and immediately give the dog praise.

It will take much practice, and many attempts. However, keep in mind that to the dog, this is all play. They are enjoying the practice sessions, so be sure that you don't become too frustrated or intense if they don't get it right away. That frustration will be detected by your pet, and it will confuse them and hinder their ability to learn.

If your dog has trouble with barking too much, there are dog barking control devices which you can use to help train them. They need to know when to bark and when they should not. You can check out various devices at http://dogbarkingcontrol.net.

Linda - http://how.best-free-information.com - The "How" Blog

Make sure that the water temperature is closely matched to the temperature of the cat, and keep the temperature constant. It should feel neither warm nor cool to them.

Be sure to avoid getting water on their face or in their ears.

If your cat goes crazy and tries to run, get some help. Have another person hold your kitty by grabbing it around the shoulders while it is standing in the tub, letting you do the shampooing. Use specially-made cat shampoo which is available at any pet supply store. If you have a long-haired breed, there is also conditioner which can help detangle their fur.

With the fur clean, the cat's coat will be much shinier and healthy-looking. It also makes it easier to comb and brush the fur of long-haired breeds.

Be sure to rinse the animal very thoroughly. Cats clean themselves with their tongues, and any shampoo or conditioner residue leftover from the bath could bother their stomachs.

When you are finished, wrap the cat in a large towel. It is important to keep the animal warm while you are drying it, to minimize the trauma of the bath. If a cat feels very cold, it will resist the bath even more the next time.

You can use a hair dryer to help dry the cat quickly, but keep the dryer on low heat and low power. Some cats will not tolerate the sound of the dryer, but if you remain calm and firm, maintaining soothing conversation with your cat through the entire process, it can help keep the cat from becoming too scared.

While drying the cat, use a brush or comb with wide teeth too comb out the fur. This helps it dry quickly and prevents tangles.

Keeping your cat warm during drying is important. Lay the cat on a cat heating pad while grooming. The heated cat pad radiates the right amount of heat to keep the cat comfy and calm.

Linda - http://how.best-free-information.com - The "How" Blog