There are a few steps you can use to to help the cat make the switch from using a litter box to using the toilet. Before you even begin making the switch, help the cat become accustomed to the fact that the bathroom is now the place they should go to relieve themselves. In other words, the best chance of success comes if the cat is already used to going into the bathroom to use the litter box.

First, you need to find something called a litter bowl. Get a bowl, like a large mixing or salad bowl, that fits inside the bowl of your toilet. You might need to use a metal bowl which you can then shape (by bending and pounding) to fit. Set the bowl inside your toilet, and fill it with litter. (Obviously it helps if you've shut the water off to your toilet tank and flushed the toilet first.) Put the seat down, but not the lid. You may need to secure the lid in the upright position to keep the cat from knocking it down on themselves (and sealing the litter bowl shut, leading to accidents!) Remove the old litter box, as this bowl now becomes the cats litter box. Be very proactive about removing any clumps right away so the cat feels comfortable using it (they don't like messy boxes, and a messy bowl won't help).

Once the cat is accustomed to the litter bowl, the next step is to have the cat get used to standing on the seat, instead of in the sand. To do this, you need some heavy-duty cardboard, or a piece of plastic, strong enough to support the weight of your cat, and large enough to cover the bowl and toilet seat. Cut a small hole, about six inches in diameter, in the center of the cover. This lets the cat paw the sand, but won't let the cat actually sit in the litter when using it. The cat may miss a few times, but they are getting used to trying without sitting in the sand. Continue to remove the dirty litter, but do not refill it, as you want the level of the litter to get lower and lower to help make the next transition.

After the cat is consistently standing on the cover and going through the hole (or close to it), you are ready for the next phase. Continue to decrease the amount of litter until there is almost none. Then, on a day when you will be around all day, or better still, an entire weekend, fill the bowl with water instead. This stage is not pleasant for you or your cat, and it is the most difficult part of training the cat. However, just remember how close you are to saying goodbye to the litter box forever!

Once the cat is comfortable using the hole in the cover into the water in the bowl, you can remove the bowl completely. Then the cat is using the toilet itself, but still with the aid of standing on the platform you've made. At that point you can begin increasing the size of the hole, little by little. Make the hole an inch in diameter larger, and let the cat successfully use it. Then increase the size again. Repeat until the hole is almost the size of the bowl. At that point you can remove the cover altogether, and the cat should be using the toilet seat to stand on, going into the toilet. No more litter box changes, you can just flush the toilet. (And yes, you can actually train your cat to flush as well!)

Pamper your toilet-trained cat with a heated cat bed. Since you are removing the privacy and snug feeling of a litter box, provide a small, cozy bed, with a cat heating pad to help them stay warm. They will love it, and have a place to relax and snuggle. If they are using the toilet instead of the litter box, they deserve it!

Linda - http://how.best-free-information.com - The "How" Blog

There are two types of "stay" behaviors that you want to see in your dog. There is what is called "stay for duration", and "stay for distance". Staying for duration trains the dog to stay in the same position for a certain amount of time. Staying for distance trains the dog to be still while you move away from the animal. They have to learn to stay for duration first.

It helps to have an environment that is free from distractions from the animal. Inside the house is best, and with no one else in the house, or at least in the room, to make distracting noises. You should even turn the TV or radio off first.

Before training the dog, you need to establish some kind of reward. Some trainers use a clicker to have a consistent sound that goes hand-in-hand with a reward of some kind, but you can also use a verbal command. Consistency is the key. When you issue the "good dog" statement, there should be no doubt that the dog is being rewarded.

Stay at eye-level with your dog. Begin by feeding the dog a treat, and giving the praise statement. Then, in one hand hold a treat back close to your chest, and use the other hand to make a signal of the palm facing the dog (like a policeman signaling "stop"). When you put your hand up, issue the command "stay", making eye contact, and in a commanding voice. Hold your hand there, while the dog stays. Start with a low count, in your head, to about three. Then reward the dog with a treat and your praise statement. Repeat the process, but increase the amount of time a little bit.

Keep in mind that training the dog to stay can save the dog's life. It is not so much a trick as it is the ability to control the dog. If the dog were to break loose and run into the street, it could get injured. Maintaining control over your pet can keep it out of trouble.

Linda - http://how.best-free-information.com - The "How" Blog

Before a dog can learn advanced tricks like playing dead or rolling over, they should already be familiar with common commands like "come", "lay down" and "stay"...especially the latter.

To start, you should teach the dog to play dead, since rolling over starts from the "play dead" position. To train a dog to play dead, you use what is called "lure training". Lure training is when you use a reward like a toy or a treat to motivate the dog to get into a certain position. It depends on whether your specific animal likes to play more, or eat more, as to which reward you use.

Have your dog lay down, and bring the treat or toy close to the dog's face, but out of reach. Bring the lure (the toy or treat) up over the dog's head and around so that the only way for the dog to follow the lure and grasp it is to lay on its side. As soon as it gets on its side, with good eye contact and a firm voice, issue the "stay" command. As the dog obeys and stays in that position, issue the new command, "play dead". When the dog does what you want, give it whatever standard praise word you use, like "good boy" or, if you are using a clicker, the click reward. Make sure that you are tying the new phrase "play dead" to the praise only when the dog has done what you want.

Remember to be patient. Training doesn't always happen in one or two sessions. Dogs like to play and establish the connection with you.

Once the dog has learned the "play dead" trick, you can help it make the transition to a "roll over". Have the dog assume the play dead position, again, using the lure that works best. Continue to bring the lure around the dog just out of reach so that is has to roll in order to see the lure. When the dog rolls over, issue the command "roll over" in a loud, firm voice, and immediately give the dog praise.

It will take much practice, and many attempts. However, keep in mind that to the dog, this is all play. They are enjoying the practice sessions, so be sure that you don't become too frustrated or intense if they don't get it right away. That frustration will be detected by your pet, and it will confuse them and hinder their ability to learn.

If your dog has trouble with barking too much, there are dog barking control devices which you can use to help train them. They need to know when to bark and when they should not. You can check out various devices at http://dogbarkingcontrol.net.

Linda - http://how.best-free-information.com - The "How" Blog

Make sure that the water temperature is closely matched to the temperature of the cat, and keep the temperature constant. It should feel neither warm nor cool to them.

Be sure to avoid getting water on their face or in their ears.

If your cat goes crazy and tries to run, get some help. Have another person hold your kitty by grabbing it around the shoulders while it is standing in the tub, letting you do the shampooing. Use specially-made cat shampoo which is available at any pet supply store. If you have a long-haired breed, there is also conditioner which can help detangle their fur.

With the fur clean, the cat's coat will be much shinier and healthy-looking. It also makes it easier to comb and brush the fur of long-haired breeds.

Be sure to rinse the animal very thoroughly. Cats clean themselves with their tongues, and any shampoo or conditioner residue leftover from the bath could bother their stomachs.

When you are finished, wrap the cat in a large towel. It is important to keep the animal warm while you are drying it, to minimize the trauma of the bath. If a cat feels very cold, it will resist the bath even more the next time.

You can use a hair dryer to help dry the cat quickly, but keep the dryer on low heat and low power. Some cats will not tolerate the sound of the dryer, but if you remain calm and firm, maintaining soothing conversation with your cat through the entire process, it can help keep the cat from becoming too scared.

While drying the cat, use a brush or comb with wide teeth too comb out the fur. This helps it dry quickly and prevents tangles.

Keeping your cat warm during drying is important. Lay the cat on a cat heating pad while grooming. The heated cat pad radiates the right amount of heat to keep the cat comfy and calm.

Linda - http://how.best-free-information.com - The "How" Blog

Has your cat ever walked across your keyboard, or worse, just plopped down right on top of it?  I mean, I understand they want affection, but c'mon!!

Well, one thing you can try is a cat heating pad.  It's not just that they want attention from you.  Every cat owner knows how much cats love 'warm spots'.  They find the patch of sunshine, or the spot near an appliance that is always warm and toasty.  That's how cats roll.

One of the reasons they're hanging around your computer, keyboard included, is the warmth that is in the area.  The computer and monitor, in particular, generate heat that they love.

Using the heating pad, and keeping it near the computer, but out of the way, you can change the cat's preferred spot.  When they get on your desk or keyboard, pick them up, and set them on the heating pad (with it on and warm, obviously).  Repeat as needed, and eventually they will figure out that it's so nice and warm on the pad that they will prefer to go there first!

Linda - http://how.best-free-information.com - The "How" Blog

The Pet Tube is essentially a collapsible canvas tube that seals, in which your pet can be kept safe while in the car. It is spill-proof (ie: pee-pee proof) and scratch-proof. It is vented, so the animal can breathe.

The tube is essentially a spring coil inside of the canvas. This allows it to compress down for storage completely flat.

The way you use the Pet Tube is to put it in the back of your vehicle where you want the pet to be. Then you pack the rest of your luggage around it. Your animal goes inside, then you zip it in to seal it in.

It's pretty clever, and a great way to get your animal around when you need to without getting pet hair or accidents in your vehicle. For example, you could use it to transport a cat to the vet. (There's a good case for the waterproof feature, since my cat always throws up on the way to the vet.)

Linda - http://how.best-free-information.com - The "How" Blog